Keratin Treatment


So, what is a keratin treatment?

A keratin treatment is a chemical process that smooths and shines frizzy hair. “Some will straighten the hair completely, while others work to relax and loosen the curl shape,” explains celebrity hairstylist Harry Josh, Goldwell & KMS ambassador. Think of it as a “topcoat” for hair, advises IGK co-founder Chase Kusero. “Hair gets frizzy when the outermost layer of the hair, called the cuticle, lifts. This allows for moisture and other environmental factors to seep in, swelling up the hair shaft and making it thick and frizzy. By permeating the hair with a keratin treatment, you’re smoothing down the cuticle and sealing it up, therefore preventing frizz and breakage.”

Results can last up to anywhere from weeks up to six months. There are many different versions of the treatment that go by different names (Brazialian Blowout ,and other ) and your hairstylist can customize a blend of the formula to suit your needs. Some versions of the treatment release formaldehyde when heated (more on that later), but many newer versions are formaldehyde-free. No matter the formaldehyde content, on a basic level, keratin treatments dive into the hair follicle and inject porous areas with Keratin, an essential hair protein. Your hair will appear healthier, because it actually is.



Can you walk me through the process?

“The length of time it takes to do a keratin treatment depends on the formula the stylist is using, as well as your hair texture, and how much hair you have,” explains hairstylist Ansen Gurgov. Expect your salon visit to last anywhere from two to four hours. When you arrive, your hairstylist will first wash your hair. Then, the hairstylist will either apply the keratin treatment to your wet hair and let the formula saturate each strand for about half an hour, or the hairstylist will blow-dry your hair first and then apply the treatment — again, it all depends on your hairstylist and your hair needs. The treatment is heat-activated. “Finally, I go over any coarse strands with a  flat iron on low to medium heat depending where the treatment needs to be sealed in,” Gurgov says, and then you’re done!

Okay, is it different from a chemical relaxer?

Absolutely. While keratin treatments are temporary and wash out after a few months, straightening relaxing are permanent . The two treatments also use different ingredients that produce different results. Using a main ingredient of sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or guanidine hydroxide, chemical relaxers break and restructure the bonds in curly hair so that the hair becomes weaker and straight. Instead of altering the chemical composition of your hair, keratin treatments actually inject the porous parts of your hair with protein, so that it feels smoother. After a few months, this washes out. Some treatments may contain a solution that releases formaldehyde when exposed to heat (there are also many new formaldehyde-free options). It is also different from a Japanese straightening treatment.

Can I do this at home?

Technically yes, but don’t expect salon-results. You’ll first need to buy the right products — do not buy professional-grade ones for home use, since they need an experienced operator to apply safely. Many treatments contain the word “keratin,” but that doesn’t automatically make them “keratin treatments.” All hair is made up of “keratin proteins,” aren’t rare. To get the best experience at home, look at the products ingredient list. A lot of smoothing treatments are actually intense silicone and conditioning treatments. After that, look at the instructions. Do they provide extensive instructions on how to wash, dry, and straighten your hair? If not, you probably have a standard conditioning product, and not a keratin treatment. And even if you buy an actual keratin treatment, your results won’t last as long as the salon version. Where a salon treatment can last for several months, at-home versions tend to wash out after a few weeks.

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